• Check for bents
• rims are bullet proof, damage is very likely as a result from a heavy accident

• Check for corrosion (if possible take out the wheel to check)
• the original bearings are NOT SEALED and very exposed to water. Replacement 30-60 Euro/bearing

• Check for bents
• rims are bullet proof, damage is very likely as a result from a heavy accident

• Check for corrosion and wear (if possible take out the wheel to check)
• bearings with much wear

• Check for wear and thickness
• rust is normal for a cast disk

• Check for traces from the rear caliper, heavy wear is a sign for high mileage or problems with the rear caliper
• rust is normal for the cast disk

• Check for brake fluid leaks at the pistons (e.g. white cristalline "powder" beeing old brake fuild

• Check for brake fluid leaks at the pistons (e.g. white cristalline "powder" beeing old brake fuild

• Check general condition: tubes, legs, painting
• Damage or rust is a sign of high mileage or poor maintenance

• Check for oxidation or damage
• heavy oxidation is a sign of poor maintenance

• Usual control of bearings

• Check for rust
• surface rust is not critical

• Most often the Permaglide-layers are worn
• bearings often heavily damaged - especially left side where water "stands" in the bearing when the bike is inclined on the side stand
• in the worst case the left swing arm bolt cannot be undone any more

• Most often the Permaglide-layers are worn
• bearings and axes often heavily damaged - especially left side where water "stands" in the bearings when the bike is inclined on the side stand
• expensive replacement, see Tips&Tricks ⇒ bearings

• Check for oil leaking. Is there any oil in the shock?
• Be aware: "damping" can also result from friction of the wrotten swing arm bearings! As replacement of the original shock is only a question of time, it is not worth waiting - better replace the vintage stuff by a modern shock that improove comfort and traction

• Check for oil leaks

• Check for engine oil leaks by taking off the left ignition engine cover

• Check manifolds beetween carburetor and cylinder for cracks
• Replacement: drilled aluminium manifolds from Stefan Huber, ca. 350 Euro

• Check tubes between airbox and carburetor for cracks
• No replacement parts!

• Should be clean (Ultrasonic cleaning)
• Spare parts are quite cheap

• Check for origin (Laverda-sign + number) and rust/holes
• individual replacement from an exhaust builder

• Check for oil-film in the exhaust gas

• Check for originality (Laverda-sign+ -number) and rust/holes
• NOS from OCT

• Check for porosity and cracks
• easy and original-like replacement: Honda-XL Replica guard

• Check the toolbag for cracks
• replacement see Tips&Tricks

• Check the indicators for cracks
• the original indicators break easily, more stable replacement see Tips&Tricks)

• original windshild missing?
• replacemenet see Tips&Tricks

• Are the original instruments working? ?
• bad precission is normal

• Is the engine protection on place? Are the fixations ok and not cracked?
• Despite beeing made of plastic it's more resisting than one would think

• Check the footrest dampers: wear is a sign for high mileage (60 thds++ )

• Check for radial play between sprocket and shaft, in doubt take of the sprocket off to inspect the shaft
• The Atlas weakest point is the shaft: wear of the splines should be less than 0.5 mm! Fix a worn shaft: solding the sprocket or open engine to replace

• Check bearings for wear (if possible take out the wheel+carrier to check)
• bearings with much wear

• Check for engine oil leak behind the front sprocket

• Check for cracks in the plastic box
• No spare parts, cracks could be repaired with a soldering iron

• Check for holes, dirt or oil
• A dirty filter is a sign of poor maintenance, replacement: TwinAir

• Must be mounted on the Y-collector

• Must be mountet between the collector and the carburetor
• Only for 1+2 series (exhaust passing from left to right)

• Check for cracks
• Old plastic easily cracks

• Check for cracks

• Check for cracks
• Replacement in an atelier ca. 80-150 Euro

• Check the tube of the switch for cracks and play
• see Tips&Tricks

• The plastic plate on the luggage carrier is very often missing

• see calipers

Cathegory brackets [Damage|Spares] :

*

unimportant damage, e.g. only optical, or easy/cheap repair

**

middle damage: repair means efford and money, could be difficult to get spares

***

heavy damage: very expensive and/or complicated repair (e.g. engine rebuild), or nearly impossible to get spares: no go for a buy

AP

After market parts

NOS

New old stock

R

Replica parts, on measure, individual manufacturing, etc

U

used parts available

X

unavailable